SUMMER IN THE CITY

It’s summertime and everyone from Manhattan to Montauk is looking for ways to stay cool yet look sharp. Maybe you’re looking for that perfect summer shoe but those canvas espadrilles don’t quite fit the bill? The New York-based company, Heutchy, has been delivering men’s shoes with the mission to create a shoe that’s of an intelligent, modern design bridging the gap between casual and formal. Their collaborations with designer, Richard Chai, and artist, Danny Roberts, have made for some pretty amazing designs. Check out these leather slip-ons (also in gray) here – or as we like to think of them, “leather Kung-Fu shoes” but in soft Italian calf skin.  This one's for you M.M.



PITTI UOMO 79 + PITTI W 7 | FLORENCE

PITTI IMMAGINE PUNTO COM

PITTI UOMO | PITTI IMMAGINE PUNTO COM

MR PORTER

Net-a-porter for men...

Read the article in the New York Times Online here.

Tokyo | Shoes, Socks (Or lack there of)

Meet Christian. Christian is a red blooded all American male. He has brown hair, green eyes and stands at five feet nine inches with a degree from The University of Chicago. Christian plays poker, drinks beer with the boys on the weekends if he's not accessing that bottle of top-shelf scotch at home. He goes on dates but only when he feels like it. He doesn't cook and eats 80 percent of his meals out on the town.

One evening we all went to sushi whereupon Christian asked in all candor, "How often do you go clothes shopping?" Not understanding where he was going with his question, I answered, "It's all relative -- I guess." I know some guys that go shopping at least once a week and there are guys that go shopping once a year.

Let the truth be known. I enjoy shopping for clothing and I have more shoes than many of my lady friends. The earliest memories of my sartorial sagacity come from holidays in Honolulu, Hawaii. On any given day, one would see Japanese tourists dressed to the nines with impeccable style.

Then there were my trips to Italy where the philosophy of La Bella Figura is just as Italian as handmade gnocchi and everyone from executives to bus drivers look neat in Italian leather lace ups. Bella Figura means “the beautiful figure” but is more so a way of life celebrating beauty, aesthetics and proper behavior. I always enjoy visiting Tokyo, Japan because it's one of the most stylish cities in the world where both men and women, young and old love to express their own personal style.

Back to Christian and our sushi dinner. "How often do you go shopping," he asked. "It's all relative," I answered. He goes on to say, "I think you have style and I need someone to go with to help me shop for clothes." A bit surprised, I agreed to help him put together a nicely curated closet. "In fact, it would be my pleasure," I said.

Aside, my friend tells Christian that he just made my day and she was right since I’ve made it a personal advocacy to make this world a neater looking place and it’s my duty to help my buddy shop for some new threads.

It seems that menswear is becoming more prevalent from the trading floors of Wall Street to the sports bars on Main Street. While their Japanese and Continental counterparts have been shopping for years, it seems men around the globe are graduating from the usual uniform of T shirts and jeans and are out in the stores shopping for themselves.

Retailers are eyeing the male shopper as the new consumer frontier. To boost sales, companies cannot rely solely on what has been tried and true, the female shoppers. The women's market is already strong and now retailers and marketing experts are realizing the need to address the growing needs and demands of the male shopper. The male shopper is easy to reach -- if you can read him since men’s brains function differently and their shopping habits differ from women’s. Men's shopping habits resemble that of a hunter where as women's habits resemble that of a gatherer.

When women go out shopping with the girls, they make a day of it browsing, fitting, and gathering clothes and accessories before they make their purchase. The male shopper already has an idea of what he's looking for before he hits the stores. Once he has zeroed in on what he wants, he makes the purchase and he makes his way out of the store. In the same way, a hunter sees his target and goes in for the kill.

And since some men only hit the stores a few times a year, many of them will buy in multiples. If I find a pair of dark wash denim that fits perfectly and I really dig the wash, I'll buy at least two pair. Maybe there is a shirt that I know I will wear often. So then, I buy a few pieces in case one gets lost with the cleaners or the shirt gets discontinued (as it always does).

So who is the new male consumer? He is like Lapo Elkann, Fiat's iconic marketing director. Lapo looks sharp in a Brioni suit, pocketsquare, and crocodile loafers and still exudes style when sunning in the French Riviera wearing a pair of board shorts and a straw fedora.

This male consumer is also man's man – he doesn’t spend two hours getting ready to go out but he still pays attention to his appearance. For the past few years, the bearded yet debonair Sean Connery has been the face of Louis Vuitton.

The new male consumer is also my friend Christian. He's young, single, and he wants to trade in his slouchy blue jeans for a pair of trim dark washed denim. This new breed of male consumers is like Christian who enjoyed picking out shirting fabric for his bespoke shirts just as much as he enjoys his scotch. It clearly shows since he ended up ordering at least half a dozen bespoke shirts from the tailor -- for starters.

Mark Twain once wrote, "Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society." It seems like things are looking up for the male market in terms of the choices offered on retail floors across the globe. Women have been the target market of retailers and marketers for years. Now it's time for the fellas to join in on the fun.



***SIDEBAR***

Hermes Man

The retail industry is zeroing in on the menswear market as a place to boost sales -- and rightly so. Men are buying clothes at nearly the same rate as women these days and why wouldn't they when there is so much more on offer on retail floors across the globe.

Originally a saddlery and maker of leather goods, The Hermes Group opened its first and only all menswear boutique at 690 Madison Avenue in Manhattans Upper East Side. No Hermes scarves here, gentlemen. Instead expect to find Hermes silk ties with "Hermes Homme" appearing on the reverse side -- the signature of the new line.

Called Hermes Man, the four story, New York City boutique houses handmade Hermes baseball gloves for USD 8500. This is French decadence meets classic Americana, all hand stitched in supple calf skin.

RICHARD CHAI| Finalist, Best New Designers in America

With Richard Chai and his Fall 2010 Collection.

Hermes Man | Menswear Store at 690 Madison Avenue

In a recent post we shared that the retail industry is zeroing in on the menswear market as a place to boost sales -- and rightly so.  Men are buying clothes at nearly the same rate as women these days and why wouldn't they when there is so much more on offer on retail floors across the globe.

Originally a saddlery and maker of leather goods, The Hermes Group is opening it's first and only all menswear boutique on Madison Avenue.  No Hermes scarves here, gentlemen.  Instead expect to find Hermes silk ties with "Hermes Homme" appearing on the reverse side the signature of the new line.

Called Hermes Man, the New York City boutique will house handmade Hermes baseball gloves for USD 8500.  This is French decadence meets classic Americana, all hand stitched in supple calf skin.

More on Hermes Man at Luxist

On Nostalgia


nos•tal•gia | a sentimental longing or wistful affection for the past, typically for a period or place with happy personal associations.


Last night, I had the honor of attending an anniversary for my aunt who celebrated 40 years of committed life as a Roman Cathlic nun.  She has lived in Italy for over 30 years where she has spent her adult life on a sprawling compound in Rome's Monteverde Vecchio disctrict.

(Villa Salvator Mundi, Monteverde Vecchio, Roma)

As I sat through the mass that was said for my dear aunt, I couldn't help but reflect on my many years in Catholic school (13 including kindergarten).  I observed from the back of the chapel while the Polish and American priests said the mass and there stood dozens of nuns in their navy blue habit, white blouse, and navy blue skirts.  Some of the younger nuns were wearing a small jumper, a collarless sleeveless dress worn over the blouse.  

*I will say this, a nun wouldn't be a nun without the essential "comfortable" shoes. If you've spent time with nuns or spent years in Catholic school, you'll know what I mean.

I recalled the hours I had spent attending mass with hundreds of other children all dressed in blue and white uniforms.  9 years in parochial school wearing blue or gray corduroy pants, white polos and navy v-neck pullover or cardigan sweaters we spent.  

(Cardigan and Corduroys by A.P.C.)

 

And when my mother gave me the freedom of picking out my own footwear, I always chose the classic canvas Vans -- usually, blue, white, or black.

(Canvas Trainers by Vans)

Fast forward to today and I still have an affinity for the same exact look.  Navy blues, white and blue shirts, and cardigan or v-neck sweaters.  I still have a love for the classic Vans but have also grown into a taste for leather lace-ups as well.  And even when I'm picking out jackets and coats, I often narrow my choices down to shades of gray, black, navy and brown.

One could say my fondness for this classic look stems from my years spent with priests, nuns, and brothers dressed in shades of black, blue, gray, and white and my affinity for shoes and Wallabees by Clarks Originals comes from those same years staring at the nuns (coincidentally my teachers) with "comfortable" shoes.

(Nuns in "Comfortable" Shoes)

(Comfortable Shoe by Clarks Originals)

Then I graduated and continued on to an all boys Catholic preparatory school.  We were given a little bit more freedom in our choice of dress as long as we were wearing slacks (no denim) and a collared shirt (no prints or profanity), no piercings or tattoos (God forbid the thought) and our hair shorn short.

To this day, I still find myself as preppy as ever.  My favorite finds often come from the offerings of Polo by Ralph Lauren , A.P.C. , J. Crew, Brooks Brothers or any of the preppy pieces curated by BEAMS and United Arrows .  My shoes, more often than not, are made by Heutchy or Clarks Originals and trainers by Vans or Adidas Originals .

So the question remains: Am I a preppy Protestant or am I parochial (denoting affiliation with a Catholic parish)...

...and after 13 years attending Catholic schools and a small stint living in a convent in Montevecchio -- I have come to the conclusion that I am more preppy than parochial.  Surely, you'll never find me wearing whale print pants or speaking with a mid-Atlantic American accent but I am preppy to the core.

"Mea Culpa," to my friends at the Roman convent ("and to all the saints..."). "Pray for us."  I will always think upon my days in parochial school with great nostalgia but these days my choice in clothing has little to do with a man (or woman) of the cloth.

To Your Commitment to Religious Life 

And Your 40th Jubilee, Dear Sister C.

TANTI AUGURI!

Is Denim Done?

Let's face it. Denim is here to stay and just when you thought that the market was super saturated with denim lines, someone manages to put out a line of denim more premium than the rest.  Go and visit any proper trade show and entire sections are covered with brands marketing their line of denim. The Japanese have been producing it on ancient looms for ages -- and they are very good at it.


For generations, London's Savile Row has been been the place where a young gentleman could have a fine woolen bespoke suit tailored.  Now Savile Row tailor, Richard James, has a line of bespoke trousers using premium Japanese denim.


It's everywhere. Denim bags from APC, jackets, and of course -- denim trousers or jeans. The New York-based men's footwear line, Heutchy, has shoes cut from Japanese denim. Since denim is here to stay, many menswear brands are producing pieces that are the color of denim. APC has a pair of navy suede shoes that are a huge hit. That said, we'll see lots of navy and dark washed blues in menswear. Just keep your eyes peeled and you'll see what we mean.

(As seen in Tokyo)

(As seen in Tokyo)

(A.P.C. Spring 2010)

(As seen in Tokyo)

(all below | shoes in Japanese denim by Heutchy Spring 2010)

SCOTT SCHUMAN AND GARANCE DORE

Interview with Scott Schuman and Garance Dore in Milan.

THE UNIFORM

Here are a few screen shots from Three Days of the Condor (1975) with Robert Redford, Faye Dunaway, and Cliff Robertson. "His CIA code name is Condor. In the next seventy-two hours almost everyone he trusts will try to kill him." Looking dapper as usual, agent Joseph Turner embodies effortless American style with his personal "uniform" (blue button down shirt and wool coats). This look is so timeless that it could be worn on the streets of London, New York and Tokyo in 1975 or 2010. If Scott Schuman were walking the streets of Manhattan at the time with his SLR in tow, surely he would have stopped the Condor. After all, most of contemporary fashion is inspired by vintage throwbacks and then re-done and re-cut to a more current fit. Check out any of the pieces from A.P.C. or United Arrows and you'll see a common thread. p.s. Let's not overlook the trim (very luxe yet still masculine) on the lapel of Cliff Robertsons coat.

AMERICANA

Here's an interesting article on the growing market of men who shop for themselves. It seems that menswear is becoming more prevalent in America from Wall Street to Main Street. Where their Continental and Asian counterparts have been shopping for years, American men are graduating from their usual uniform of t shirts and jeans. Check out this article by Fashion Editor, Debra Bass. ___ Men Have Been Shopping More; Now Do They Want More? By Debra D. Bass St. Louis Post-Dispatch Will men become the new women in shopping malls? Maybe. Maybe not. But most pundits and marketers and the folks who measure such things note that retailers are looking to men as the new consumer frontier. Any business model looking to expand can't rely on its tried-and-true customers (women) to double up their efforts. Instead they have to look at new recruits to boost sales. More men started shopping for themselves within the past decade, and the numbers are holding steady, according to the U.S. Malls shopping pattern report. Male shoppers make up just under 40 percent of mall shoppers, and they spend nearly as much as women per visit ($93 for men; $101 for women). And within the latest period studied 2005-2007, men started making more trips to the mall on average than women. According to the report the average guy made 3.1 visits to the mall each month and women made 2.9 visits. Not a huge difference. Both men and women have been hitting the malls less in recent years, but now that it looks like women are not going to pick up the slack at cash registers, retailers are looking to men to lift the consumer slump. Sure, men aren't skipping lunch to hit a sale with their buddies, high-fiving over a killer find from the clearance rack or pondering the new colors for spring _ yet _ but they are shopping more and ostensibly enjoying it. Jerry Talamantes of Dillard's Midwest division said, "You cannot imagine our menswear efforts this year. We're very excited about it because we're stepping out of the box." WOMEN SHOP, MEN BUY Talamantes said that men shop differently than women, and so stores are experimenting with how far they will go if stores sell appealing products. He said that men don't need any more classic, conventional pieces that look like the items they already own. To that end, Dillard's ( www.dillards.com ) is trying to get men to buy garments that are more fitted because a slimmer silhouette will help them notice the difference in clothing. He said that if they can just get guys to scale down half a size, men will start to appreciate the differences in men's fashion. Talamantes said that getting men to invest in the vest as a wardrobe staple will help. "The vest isn't such a massive departure for guys," Talamantes said. "It's an easy sell, and if it's the right fit, it's very slimming either opened or closed. And men who don't wear fashion vests might look for outerwear versions made of waterproof or corduroy." He said that stores have to find ways to get men excited about new fashion. "They have no choice. The market is saturated with classic clothes," Talamantes explained. "How many plaid shirts can a guy own? There has to be a new vibe. So we have to make sure there are more wide collars and separated collar shirts, more items that add dimension to the male body. That's key." Saks Fifth Avenue is aiming a little higher in its product offerings under a new label of Saks Fifth Avenue Men's Collection. The retailer realized that it was missing a range of products that fit into a moderate upscale price point. A cashmere ribbed zip-front cardigan will still run you about $395, a purple checked shirt can be had for $135 and a wool glen plaid puffer vest will cost about $495. "There's a guy who thinks of Saks as too trendy and too expensive, and we needed a way to reach him," said Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director of menswear, home, food and gifts. He said, "This is a large undertaking, and we are all holding our breath." HELLO, MANTYHOSE But in the age of the manbags, guyliner (men in black eyeliner) and murdles (guy girdles), men have shown a willingness to experiment. OK, only a few, but a funny thing happens when radical ideas or fashions start to seep into the mainstream, it shifts middle ground and brings acceptance to ideas that would have seemed too outlandish earlier. So I was only a little surprised when our friends overseas decided to expand our outer limits with mantyhose. That's right, men's pantyhose. Selfridges (the British equivalent of a Barney's New York) recently announced that it will sell Mantihose by Unconditional for about $112. And because once you go "mantihose" you might lose all inhibitions, the store will also sell a mini kilt for men, also by Unconditional for about $436. Reactions, as you'd expect, have been mixed. The bloggers at stylelist.com said: "That's it. We are so hibernating this winter. Wake us up when it's over." But nylongene.com, hosted by Steve Newman, a vehement supporter of men's hosiery, said: "Men's legwear (sheer or otherwise) is a completely masculine garment if worn in conjunction with otherwise male attire." Men's tights have been around for quite some time in sports performance enhancement (runners' tights) and cold-weather apparel (long johns). There's even a blog, E-Mancipate ( www.e-mancipate.net ), that preaches the virtues of men's pantyhose with unabashed real-men-wear-tights fervor. And if the crowd at New York Fashion Week can be seen as a harbinger of things to come, there were men in heels, skirts, hosiery and makeup in attendance. But rather than cross-dressing, the men were simply looking for more options than the typical male uniform affords. Men who wore kilts and tights chose dark colors and otherwise dressed in men's suiting. The guys in heels were only obvious because they tended to tower at heights of around 6-foot-5. And the men who chose makeup tended to only enhance their eyes with a subtle smoky treatment or put a little hint of tinted gloss on their lips. Nothing that guys on the fringe haven't been doing for years, but how will it affect the mainstream? Women have been holding up the frivolous shopping, uncomfortable shoes, restrictive garment, time-consuming beauty products, trend-fever consumerism for years. It's about time men joined the fun. ___ (c) 2009, St. Louis Post-Dispatch. Visit the Post-Dispatch on the World Wide Web at http://www.stltoday.com / Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.